TOMAR
DAY
5
Estalagem de Santa Iria Hotel & Spa
Our driver, Carlos, drove us out of Évora in a light rain and stopped not too far away at the Arraiolas Castle. We had the opportunity to venture out in the, now, driving rain to see this circular medieval castle. Kevin and I joined the other brave souls up the steep, slippery hill as the wind and rain sideswiped us. Thankfully, once we reached the top the rain relented, though the wind still howled. It was worth the effort nonetheless!
Rovisco Garcia Estate
We continued on our route through the Alentejo region, eventually traveling on gentle winding roads which led us to the cork oaks of the Rovisco Garcia Estate. The Carvalho Rovisco Garcia family has farmed the land for centuries and now manages more than 1,690 hectares of forests. The family also produces award winning wine and olive oil but the legacy of their land was built on cork production. Cork is a very important natural resource and Portugal leads the world in its production.
Our host during the visit was family member, Sofia. She was able to give us a good overview of the ecosystem, sustainability, and harvesting of the cork oaks while we still had a bit of sunshine. The rain came down hard as we loaded up in the vehicles for our safari-like tour. Sadly, our views were diminished but Sofia made sure we were informed, entertained...and dry!
A home-cooked lunch of salad, potato sticks, chicken pie, fish soup, bread, olive oil and wine settled our chills and filled our bellies. It was served in a cozy, lodge-type room that would be a taxidermist's dream. We truly felt spoiled by the hospitality shown to our group. The memories as I put together this page still make me smile.
TOMAR
Knights Templar
The beautiful little town of Tomar was built under the orders of Gualdim de Pais in the 12th century. He was the fourth Grand Master of the Knights Templar, which was an important military order of the Catholic faith. The Templar knights were among the most skilled fighting units of the Crusades.
Tomar later became an important center of Portuguese overseas expansion under Prince Henry the Navigator, an initiator of the Age of Discovery.
Rafael took our group on a short orientation walk in the early evening and we immediately fell in love with Tomar. There's something about the sound of the river waters flowing that leaves you with a peaceful feeling. Though unfamiliar, the town felt homey.
Since the evening was pleasant and dry, Kevin and I decided to walk through the park up to the castle and convent. We were only able to explore outside the walls but anticipated the full tour awaiting us in the morning.
DAY
6
Estalagem de Santa Iria Hotel & Spa
After breakfast, the group met up with our local guide, Sandra. We are always so impressed with our local guides and count them among the many reasons we keep booking with Rick Steves' Tours. Sandra led us up to the Castle and Convent of Christ. The original town of Tomar was created inside the walls of the convent. Everything from the manicured gardens to the circular church was wistful and alluring—a photographer's paradise.
The day started out cloudy but turned sunny by the time our tour ended and we prepared for our hour drive to the coastal surfing hotspot of Nazaré.
Nazaré
We all boarded the bus to Nazaré in the late morning and arrived just past noon. The day had become sunny and warm, exactly what you want when visiting a seaside resort. We started off in the Sítio neighborhood on top the cliff and had several hours to spend as we pleased. We first visited the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazaré to see the Marian shrine that memorializes the miracle that occurred in 1182 through the intercession of Mary, mother of Jesus. Across the plaza from the Santuary is a centuries old Hermitage that also commemorates the Miracle of Nazaré. It's been a place of pilgrimage over the years, especially for explorers.
If you are up on the clifftop, it's imperative that you make the hike to the lighthouse and fort, dedicated to the archangel Michael. The fort is located above the beach Praia do Norte, known for having the record of the world’s biggest waves. There is now a museum inside the fort dedicated to surfers and Nazaré's surfing culture. The views from this area are amazing and you shouldn't pass it up. We didn't!
TOURTIDbits
There is a documentary on Netflix called the "100 Foot Wave." We discovered it after returning from our trip and highly recommend it. The series follows big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara as he attempts to conquer a 100-foot wave in Nazaré. You get to see familiar scenes but the story is equally enthralling.
When in Nazaré, give barnacles a try! Who knew they tasted so good?! (Who knew they were even edible?!)
While we're on the subject of food items most Americans would never consider eating, you've gotta love how the Europeans utilize every animal body part in their cooking—leaving nothing to waste. We are game to try new things so the next time I see chicken feet on the menu, I'm giving them a try!
Upon returning to Tomar, Kevin and I walked around town some more. We stopped at an outdoor bar in the Republica Square and shared drinks and conversation with a couple of guys who were bicycling 1000 km in Europe. As avid bikers ourselves, we listened in admiration.
Our group dinner this evening still remains in my memory banks as one of my favorites. The Casa das Ratas (translates as the "House of Rats") served up a remarkable multi-course traditional Portuguese dinner with regional specialties. We all gave Rafael a huge "thanks" for making the perfect dining selection. There was honestly nothing about our time in Tomar and Nazaré that disappointed!
