COIMBRA
DAY
7
Riversuites
Batalha
Our group left Tomar around 8:30 am with two stops planned on the itinerary before arriving in Coimbra. The first stop was only a half hour north, landing us in Batalha. Oh my! What a grand welcoming we got when the Monastery of Batalha came into view! It was originally a Dominican convent known as the Monastery of Saint Mary of the Victory and is one of the best examples of Late Flamboyant Gothic architecture in Portugal. It is one of several structures on the UNESCO list of World Heritage sites that were part of our tour.
The Batalha Monastery would serve as the royal pantheon of the 15th-century Aviz dynasty of Portugal. It was built to thank the Virgin Mary for the Portuguese victory over Castile in the Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385, and it took over a century to construct. It remains one of the most important Gothic sites in Portugal and we're glad we got to see it.
Fátima
We arrived in Fátima around noon, along with the rain. It misted at first but then came down hard and steady. It didn't deter the pilgrims, nor us. As a cradle Catholic, I was very moved at the realization of being in Fátima, the site of Marian apparitions reported by three shepherd children in 1917. It was Sunday and I was able to attend Mass at the small outdoor Chapel of Apparitions with a couple of tour friends. Thankfully we were under the edge of the overhang so we didn't get drenched. Kevin helped lead me around afterward to visit the Basilica and see the tombs of the shepherd children before our departure.
Fatima is a vital part of Portugal's identity and attracts millions of pilgrims each year.
Coimbra
We brought some of the rain with us to Coimbra, but only a sprinkle that lasted for a short time. Christina, our local guide, started our walk toward the university which was once a palace. The University of Coimbra is one of Europe's oldest universities, founded in 1290. Enrollment is over 25,000 students and the school originally opened in Lisbon. It was permanently based in Coimbra in 1537 by King John III, whose statue lords over the main university square.
We toured some of the notable school facilities, including the St. Michael Chapel, the Throne Room, and the "must-see but no pictures allowed" Joanina Library. I purchased a couple of nostalgic postcards a group of law students were selling as a fundraiser. It was an impressive campus visit and made us anxious to see more of this historic university town.
Kevin and I joined a couple of our tour friends for dinner that evening at Solar de Bacalhau, where you can savor a salt-cod extravaganza.
DAY
8
Riversuites
We headed to the countryside this morning to visit the Ceramics of Coimbra factory. The owner, Mario, gave us a fascinating tour of his small factory, where traditional hand-painted glazed ceramics are still being produced. Mario is passionate about his products and the process to create them. He worries that the hand-made design work is becoming a lost art. We saw a couple of artisans working and it is indeed tedious work, but oh so beautiful. We were invited into the showroom and it was a color wheel come to life in ceramics! We learned that these items are sold in high-end American stores, but you are also likely to find some at Home Goods and TJ Maxx! I've gone looking but haven't seen any in my area yet. I did, however, buy a hand-painted soap dish before leaving Coimbra and managed to get it home without breaking.
Our next stop was Conímbriga to see the Roman ruins. This is one of the largest excavated Roman settlements in Portugal. There is a small but interesting museum we visited before our trek through the ruins. There was no threat of rain on this day but a sure need for sunscreen and shades.
The bus ride back to Coimbra was relaxing and there was time to grab some gelato before our reservation at Caso Fado ao Centro. It was an intimate space for our 2nd Fado experience. It's mesmerizing to watch and listen to this traditional Portuguese melancholic performance. The music touches your soul.
The rest of the day/evening was free so we added steps to our daily count by visiting the Botanic Gardens. (Or is it the "Bamboo" Gardens?) We then walked along the river, taking a lot of pictures, and then to dinner at Sete Restaurant. Kevin ordered a lamb shank and I tried the suckling pig pie. It was fine dining at its best!
TOURTIDbits
My step count on this day was 18,421. On average, we walked around 15,000 steps per day in Portugal. That's about 7 miles. We both wear good supportive athletic shoes, waterproof with good traction on those rainy days. Make sure to pack your comfy shoes!
