ÉVORA
DAY
4
Hotel M'AR de AR Muralhas
We left the hotel after breakfast for our scenic drive to Évora. Along the way we spotted stork nests and oak forests that are a favorite of black pigs in the Alentejo countryside. These Iberian pigs produce some of the most delectable ham!
We arrived in Évora mid-morning and stored our luggage at the hotel before meeting up with our local guide, Maria. She was a spitfire and seemed to be well known in the community. Maria took us on a city walk, beginning in the Jewish Quarter, with its narrow, winding streets and white-washed buildings. It was once a vibrant community struck with tragedy in 1496 when King Manuel I commanded the expulsion of all Jews from Portugal. Such repeated themes we learn about on our travels resonate with current events and leave us feeling somber. Yet connections we make along the way and the shared values we find in our hosts instill hope for the future.
A visual of traditional Portuguese cuisine.
Maria
Our morning stayed somber as Maria took us to the Capela dos Ossos, or Chapel of Bones. This macabre chamber is inside the Church of St. Francis, next to the former Franciscan monastery. Its walls are covered in skulls and bones. It's one of those things you can't really prepare for, you just have to experience it and let the emotions come as they may.
A poem hangs in the Chapel which
translates as follows:
Where are you going in such a hurry, traveler?
Pause...do not advance your travel.
You have no greater concern than this one:
That which is now before your eyes.
Recall how many have passed from this world,
Reflect on your similar end.
There is good reason to do so;
If only all did the same.
Ponder, you so influenced by fate,
Among the many concerns of the world,
So little do you reflect on death.
If by chance you glance at this place,
Stop ... for the sake of your journey,
The longer you pause, the further on your journey you will be.
— Padre António da Ascenção,
translated by Father Carlos A. Martins
The rest of our guided tour with Maria took us through the Évora Cathedral (the largest medieval cathedral in Portugal) and then to the Roman Temple of Diana. The Temple looks misplaced standing alone in the center of Évora!
We then had free time to explore this intriguing town. Kevin and I chose to climb to the terrace of the Cathedral for a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. We were advised to mention Maria's name at the ticket counter for a free entry and it worked. I told you she was well known in her community!
We made time in our meandering for some gelato and souvenirs. Évora is in "cork" country and the souvenir selection reflected that. I never knew so many items could be made of cork! We had many laughs with our group at the evening Happy Hour with buddy introductions. Then the two of us rushed to our reservation at Cafe Alentejo. Pork cheeks were on the menu and soon on our plates. If you have never eaten cheeks, I urge you to try. They are rich and satisfying--melt in your mouth protein!
Évora Street Scenes
.jpeg)
TOURTIDbits
We recommend that you follow Rick's advice and pack lightly. Kevin and I both use lightweight carry-on backpacks. Mine has wheels and a retractable handle which I appreciate because I also take a camera backpack. Kevin purchased his Convertible Carry-On from the Rick Steves' Europe website and it serves him well. We pack for a week and do laundry mid-trip. Really, it's very doable!
Our hotel room and luggage.
