Chapter 6 - Syracuse, Isle of Ortigia
DAY
6 & 7
Roman Mosaics & Syracuse
Day 6 - November 17, 2024
It's Sunday and our breakfast spread was the biggest of our trip so far. I regret that I took no pictures. The bus departed to our next destination, with some memorable stops along the way. There was one more chance to see the Temple of Hera high on the ridge as we exited Agrigento. We also passed a sign at a roundabout that recognized six famous Italian writers. Stephanie shared some background details on a few of them and recommended their books.
È così che è...
(It's the way it is...)
Of the local authors listed on the roundabout sign we passed, Stephanie recommended Andrea Camilleri for his fun Salvo Montalbano crime novels. She also suggested the movie, Cinema Paradiso. Both are available on Amazon.
I have since learned that the 2025 Netflix series, The Leopard is filmed in Sicily and based on Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s classic novel of the same name.
Later, we caught our first glimpse of Mt. Etna, its snow-covered peak crisp against the bright blue sky. Yes...another lucky day with clear skies and pleasant weather!
Our morning stop was at the Villa Romana del Casale. I was not prepared for the magnitude of decorative mosaics preserved and displayed in this 4th century AD. Roman villa. The name of my freelance business is Mosaic Graphics so I have an affinity to mosaics. It's my belief that mosaics are a concrete example of how small things, even broken and jagged, working together in unity, can create something of incredible beauty. There wasn't enough time to fully absorb the nuances of the images displayed or comprehend the stories they told, but I took plenty of pictures to zoom in and out of. This Villa Romana del Casale link provides extensive details and historical references to satisfy your curiosity if you want to learn more. A sampling of my favorite pictures from the Villa are below.
Did Someone Say, "Mosaics"?
WOW!
Villa Romana
del Casale
Group Lunch at a Working Farm
We drove a short distance from our mosaic extravaganza to Torre di Renda, a working farm in Piazza Armerina where we were treated to a delicious Sicilian 3-course Sunday brunch. We ate anti-pasta, salad, risotto, pork in mushroom sauce and fresh tangerines. The red wine they served was also very good.
Syracuse - Isle of Ortigia
12,500 Steps
We arrived in Syracuse as it was getting dark. Taxi vans delivered us across the bridge in Syracuse to the Isle of Ortigia where we stayed for two nights. The Domus Mariae Hotel is a former convent that sits along the seaside in Ortigia. My heart is swelling at the memories made on this quaint little isle.
The group took an evening orientation walk with Stephanie and Mojca and were greeted with an amazing view of the harvest moon rising over the sea as we exited our hotel! On our walk we saw the Fountain of Diana (Fontana di Diana) and at the Piazza del Duomo, we listened to the beautiful bell chimes of the Cathedral of Syracuse at 6:30 p.m. When Kevin and I went back to hear them again on the hour, I learned there was a 7:00 p.m. Mass to attend. This was my additional WOW moment of the day!
Kevin and I walked around for awhile after church and then returned to the hotel after eating a lite dinner. We couldn't have asked for a better day or night!
WOW!
Syracuse, Past and Present
Syracuse & Isle of Ortigia
Day 7 - November 18, 2024
Il controllo per favore!
(The check please!)
Our local guide today was Liliana. She led our group on an interesting city walk. One of the first landmarks we saw was the Temple of Apollo, which is the oldest Greek temple in Sicily. The columns of the temple are made from one piece of stone, not sections. The temple sits near the market and we took a quick stroll through it. You could find just about any spice you wanted at one of the booths.
Day and night in Ortigia
Liliana took us to the Piazza del Duomo and gave us a fascinating tour of the Cathedral of Syracuse (Duomo di Siracusa). The structure of the Cathedral was once a Doric Greek Temple of Athena that was built in the 6th century BC. You can see the columns both inside and out. I loved the colorful reflections from the stained glass windows as the sun shone through while we toured!
The entrance to the Cathedral.
View from the Piazza del Duomo
Members of our group taking a break
The entrance to the Cathedral.
Our group walk continued toward the sea where we lingered at Arethusa’s Spring (Fonte Aretusa). This is a mysterious fresh water spring situated just meters from the sea. There was a swan nesting amid the papyrus plants that grow abundantly here.
Liliana then took us to the catacombs beneath the Church of St. Philip the Apostle (Chiesa Di San Filippo Apostolo) that were used as bomb shelters during World War II. The Greeks originally used this underground tunnel network as a water system. The tunnels are extensive and it would be easy to get lost in them.
Our final group activity of the day was to watch a colorful puppet show. The Puppet Theatre (Teatro Di Pupi) is located in the old Jewish quarter of Ortigia. The puppets are handmade, keeping with the Sicilian tradition, and all performances are in Italian. The puppeteers had a meet and greet after the performance and were generous in taking our questions. I later saw several of the puppeteers walking down the street transporting their cast of characters.
Free Time to Explore and a Happy Hour
27,791 Steps
Kevin and I walked around the island after the puppet show taking in the sites. It was another beautiful sunny day! We crossed the bridge into Syracuse to have tea and lunch, then visited the Church of Santa Lucia al Sepolcro to see the Carravaggio painting, The Burial of Saint Lucy. The Basilica sits on the site where Patron Saint Lucy was martyred in the year 304.
Stephanie arranged a Happy Hour along the promenade near the port to watch the sunset. This comfortable, relaxed setting prompted great fellowship with Stephanie, Mojca and other members of our tour. The additional reward was the glorious sunset! It was going to be hard to say "Goodbye" to Syracuse tomorrow morning.
